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Stacy's Finds
The hubby loves this beach for some reason…
When we first moved here, Sunday was all about the food and where we would eat breakfast. Now, it's all about the beach.
Bali has two distinct seasons: dry (May – September) and wet (October – April). I guess we got off lightly this year as except for a few wonderfully dramatic electrical storms and heavy, but brief showers, the "rainy" season wasn't that much different from the dry season we first encountered upon our arrival in early August.
The one thing that does drastically change with each season is the condition of the beaches around the island. During the "wet" season, the place to be is the Nusa Dua area which is located on the eastern side of the southern tip of the island known as the Bukit Peninsula.
Many of the island's top hotels populate this area for obvious reasons: miles and miles of white sand beaches and the turquoise Indian Ocean without a lot of the trash you will find on some of the beaches during this time of year.
Our favorite spot in Nusa Dua is a stretch known as Geger Beach located right in front of the yummy Nusa Dua Beach Grill. Here you will find a family friendly party every Sunday. Except for the cliff top Balinese temple overlooking the south side of the beach, I feel like Geger could be in Greece or on an island off of Italy. The vibe is very international as almost every accent and language can be overheard and the atmosphere is a mixture of European and North Shore, Hawaii surfer chic.
The waves are pumping this time of year and the scene is mostly local expatriates as Bali's tourist season doesn't get into full swing until June. There are beach chairs and umbrellas that you can rent for approximately $7.50 or just tell the friendly staff that you plan to order lunch on the beach or up at the grill and the beach chairs are complimentary. The pizzas ($5) are great and the beers are cold.
To Pembantu or not to Pembantu
I remember being so excited about our "laundry room with a view" back home in Hawaii because that's where I spent most of my time: sorting while the baby napped, washing and drying while the kids watched a movie and folding while they were safely ensconced in school.
The truth is I haven't done a load of laundry since we moved to Bali six months ago. Our housekeeper doesn't even do the laundry. Two or three times a week, Ketut hauls a drawstring bag to the laundry service and for about $2 – $5, brings back a tidy bundle to neatly unpack in everyone's drawers. Everything is ironed from the kid's t-shirts, to David's boxers to our sheets and towels.
Life with a full-time housekeeper and cook (pembantu in Balinese) seems somewhat normal to me now that we've settled in, but believe me, I did my time as an all-American "supermom" back home.
When we were on the final countdown to move here, my fantasy was to be able to sit down to breakfast with my husband and children while breakfast was cooked, served and cleaned up. Imagine…sitting down to breakfast with my family! Before Bali, I cooked, hastily served everyone and then ate my haphazard portion on the run while cleaning, getting Stanley ready for school and David off to work.
Our mornings in Bali are quite different. Ketut arrives at 7:30 a.m. with a beautiful smile, washes the dishes from the night before, sends Stanley across the street to pick up some fresh brown eggs (and to practice his Indonesian) and then gets to work on veggie omelettes, pancakes, fried rice or whatever we have in mind.
Of course, mornings are not always smooth sailing. We still have the lunches to make, the kids to get dressed and the teeth to be brushed. The baby has his meltdowns and I manage to misplace something of importance right before heading out the door, but at least now it seems somewhat manageable and a little more fun.
Most of the expatriates I talk to say they moved to Bali for the culture and experience, but stayed for the help and lifestyle. We are all in agreement that there is no better place for a family with young children to live if you not only want to survive the process of raising your brood, but actually want to enjoy the ride as well.
We're not in Kansas anymore
When I finished reading "Eat, Pray, Love" a couple of years ago, I fantasized about moving to Ubud; finding a cozy Balinese cottage in the middle of a rice paddy with a yoga studio right down the street.
When we actually landed in Ubud for the first time this summer, I couldn't believe my eyes: the quaint artists' village I had envisioned is actually a bustling mecca of restaurants, art galleries, jewelry shops, cafes and spas – not a yoga studio in sight let alone a spare square inch on the topsy turvy sidewalk we attempted to maneuver with the kids. Note to self: Ubud is not the place to bring a stroller; better off with a Kelty backpack carrier, for sure.
Even in the "slow" season which is regarded as October thru April, Ubud is a beehive of activity. Despite the pace though, there is a different energy here that feels deeper, more grounded than many of the coastal towns; you climb the mountain and the temperature drops a few degrees, coconut, banana, banyan and plumeria trees hover along steep precipices overlooking rocky, flowing streams. You have to take your time in Ubud. It is not the kind of place to spend half a day and feel like you've really seen what she has to offer.
The best strategy is to spend a few days and take each street slowly; shop for an hour then people watch inside a cafe and have a fresh watermelon juice or ginger tea. A fantastic souvenir that a few of the shops specialize in is a double-ply parachute fabric hammock; they are bright, durable and will remind the family of Bali for years to come. The jewelry selection is mind boggling, loungy; eco-fabric clothing shops for men and women as well as really fun children's lines such as Dandelion Baby tempt you in every turn.
There is also art everywhere; good and bad. Dismiss the oversized, beret sporting Che Guevara portraits and duck into one of Ubud's smart little art galleries such as T-artspace which features temporary exhibits of contemporary Indonesian artists. Right around the corner you'll find Ganesha Bookshop which has a fabulous collection of Balinese Books and Bali Buddha; where Ubud's "hippy set" go for a great vegetarian meal, organic necessities and locally made products.
If you're in a heartier mood, head to the bright and beautiful two-story Laughing Buddha Bar for a delectable bowl of shrimp wonton soup and live music most nights of the week. And if you're feeling really frisky, head to standing room only Naughty Nuri's which boasts the most famous martinis and ribs on the island.
"The Greatest Wealth Is Health"
There's no way around it: Getting old is not for the faint of heart. Of course, it helps to be mindful and to remember your morning flax seed, but after the big 4-0, sometimes the body just doesn't choose to cooperate.
For the last three weeks, I have been a dutiful wife listening to the gripes and groans from the hubby who has been dealing with a very painful pinched nerve in his neck. Was it the impromptu beach volleyball game? The morning stand up paddle surf session? The wrong pillow, perhaps?
So, week one he tried the massages; week two the chiropractor and week three some x-rays were taken. Along the way, several of our friends insisted that David see a Balinese healer. "You know, an old blind one that can cure anything," whispered our neighbor.
The most famous Balinese healer is Ketut Liyer of "Eat, Pray, Love" fame and he is still alive and well in Ubud enjoying much success as a sought after medicine man. We were open to suggestions from our friends as to whom we should contact for help, but mysteriously, no one could provide us with a name or number. I finally came to the conclusion that we couldn't seek the healer; he would have to find us.
The mantra in Bali is 'expect the unexpected,' so last Wednesday, we visit the home of DHR model, Melati Erhart, to talk shop. She says her hip has been bothering her for the last couple of years and that her healer is coming over shortly to perform an exorcism of sorts. My ears perk up. An exorcism on my husband sounds exactly like what he needs!
'Abdul' arrives and takes David into the guest bale (bah-lay) to diagnose the problem. Without an explanation, he pinpoints the exact excruciating spot. Melati translates while he pokes and prods and then gets down to work. I excuse myself to eat some lunch and can hear the yelps and screams coming from the guest house as Abdul physically lifts the tendons up from below David's left shoulder blade.
David walks out in a daze, hoping that what he just went through will pay off in a few days. Abdul offers him an ancient Balinese herbal remedy called jamu which is a potent brown mixture chock full of ginger and local honey from his village. He winks at us as Melati translates that this traditional 'cure-all' drink will not only help heal David's neck but will also give his virility a big boost.
Not exactly the kind of exorcism I had in mind, but it's all about the baby steps, isn't it?
Have Your Brunch and Eat it Too
The Balinese are famous for their love of children. Ceremonies to insure good luck in life start in utero and Balinese infants are not even allowed to touch the ground until six months of age when yet another elaborate celebration takes place to honor the event.
How did the children of Bali inspire this God-like reverence, you ask? I'm not sure, but it is a relief to vacation or live in a place where children are not only valued, but actually welcomed into nice shops, restaurants and hotels. It is not unusual for one of our sons to be whisked away into a waiter or salesgirl's arms as if he or she had never seen a child before. This kind of experience definitely helps to set the tone of an afternoon or evening especially if you've just barely survived a meltdown or are in desperate need of a 5-minute break.
On any given evening and early morning in Bali, you'll find the island's hipsters dancing the night away at the internationally renowned, Ku De Ta restaurant and bar. But on Sundays, the bright red umbrellas and breathtaking ocean views are reserved for the little people as the grounds are filled with the sounds of laughing children instead of world famous beats.
At no extra charge, younger kids are free to swim in the pool (which is located in the middle of the restaurant), enjoy really creative art activities in the kiddie tent, jump in the bouncy castle or nibble on one of the mini-burgers offered on the kids' bar-b-que. The older guys can rent a surfboard on the beach for $5 and get a surf in if they're fairly experienced or pick up a really cool Panama style beach hat on the beach in front of the restaurant.
While the kids are entertained, parents enjoy a REALLY nice breakfast (I love the ricotta pancakes) and maybe a Corona or two….
Get Ready to Feel Good
Mahalo to New York based wellness website, Venus in Balance, for featuring us in a recent profile of "v-inspiring" people.
Best Dressed List
DHR is found in many of the world's most exclusive getaways. As I wrote this post I realized that our shopping guide could also be used as a travel resource for those seeking a little bit of indulgence. Part I: Hawai'i
Let's start with the subdued island of Lana'i, the perfect spot to muddle your way through a couple of days of jet lag. The Four Seasons Manele Bay is situated on one of Hawai'i's most picturesque bays; sparkling white sand set against a peacock blue Pacific Ocean. Take in the view (or a snooze) under one of the pool's yellow umbrellas or rehab during one of the spa's signature treatments such as the cooling ti-leaf wrap.
Now that you're settled, let's head to the brand new Kapalua Spa on Maui to get ready for some hot yoga overlooking Kapalua Bay or maybe if you still need another day or two; a healing bath immersed in calming ali'i kula lavender. This 30,000 square foot Hawaiian spa heaven is the ultimate retreat set amidst Maui's most luxurious resort community.
Relaxed and ready to experience a bit of Honolulu's more urban indulgences, head to the affluent suburb of Kahala on O'ahu's southeast shore, where you'll find the chic kiosk of Riches Hawaii. Located in trendy Kahala Mall near Starbuck's and Godiva thank goodness; owner, Lo Kaimuloa, often carries local designer goods that are not found anywhere else on the island. If you're in the mood to see "whose" in town, grab a bite to eat at the celeb magnet haven of the Kahala Resort where you'll find BECCA Beach, a new boutique catering to the island's fashionistas. Mrs. Ozzy Osbourne recently picked up a DHR silk wrap for herself at BECCA Beach. Mahalo, Sharon!
If a timeless classic is on your list, head to the vintage oceanfront delight that is the Halekulani Resort. High tea on the verandah? Check. Our aqua silk pareau is a signature item at the spa's boutique and our silk wraps are given to VIP guests to wear during treatments. Makes sense as silk is known as a healing natural fiber.
With shopping bags in tow, head to the verdant home of the Grand Hyatt Kaua'i Resort and Spa for some lokahi; unity, harmony and balance. End your Hawaiian journey with a lomi lomi or pohaku warm stone massage in one of the spa's open air bungalows. As they say, the closer you are to nature, the closer you are to discovering yourself.
Mahalo, Thank You, Terima Kasih
The Balinese don't keep "gratitude journals" or need to be reminded about the power of positive thinking. Thanks in part to their strong Hindu faith, they live and breathe the practice of being thankful – not just once a week or once a day, but several times throughout the day. Their culture has remained intact despite the popularity of the island and they continue to offer prayer morning, noon and night accompanied by beautiful little offerings; flower petals, burning incense, bits of rice and candy, maybe a coin, all held in a small woven basket.
One of our resolutions this year at Diamond Head Road is to find more ways to give back to the people who make a positive difference. We welcome your requests for product donations that might help the success of your fundraiser or silent auction. Currently, we support several charities throughout Hawaii including Hanahou'oli School, the financial aid program of Punahou School, North Hawaii Hospice, The Outdoor Circle and we recently accepted a new donation inquiry for 2010 from the Lyon Arboretum in Honolulu.
In a fashion sense, we try our best to be respectful about our impact on the earth and her residents. All of our clothing and accessories are produced by Balinese artists whose families have worked with silk for several generations. The boutique factory in which the manufacturing takes place is family run and certified by UNICEF. Our clothing is 100-percent silk; considered a naturally environmentally friendly fiber as it requires no pesticide use.
The island of Bali offers many ways in which residents, visitors and admirers can contribute to help make life better for everyone. There is a fantastic curbside recycling program run by Eco-Bali that residents can sign up to use for as little as $5/month. Or you can make a difference in the life of a local Balinese child by donating to Green School – an innovative (and gorgeous) campus started by John and Cynthia Hardy of the world famous John Hardy jewelry line. Twenty-percent of their students are Balinese children attending on full scholarships.
Our Favorite Restaurant! There's no question that the hands down winner of our favorite restaurant; especially for the mind blowing chocolate desserts goes to the Casa Luna Restaurant located in the bustling mountain town of Ubud. Chocolate mousse, chocolate decadence, flourless chocolate cake – you name it, they make it and along with the ambiance, it's magical! Built on a lush, steep ravine; Casa Luna is the successful dream child of powerhouse Bali expat, Janet De Neefe, who arrived on the island in 1974 and has built an iconic empire. Visit Casa Luna